A single queen ant of the species Carebara diversa, commonly known as the Marauder ant, or an army ant queen species, can establish a colony comprising 220,000 workers within a span of 3 to 5 years. The queen of an army ant colony is referred to as a dichthadiigyne. She is blind, lacks wings, and is five times larger than the soldier ants within the colony.
Queen ant types play a significant role for ant keepers because these remarkable insects use different strategies to establish their colonies.
Queen ants belong to two distinct categories: claustral and semi-claustral queens. The colony's success depends on each type's specific care and setup requirements. Claustral queens depend on their stored nutrients, while semi-claustral queens need feeding from day one.
Let us walk you through these fascinating queen ant types and their unique characteristics. This piece will help you create the perfect environment for each type. The knowledge will benefit both newcomers starting their first colony and experienced keepers expanding their expertise. You'll discover the significant differences between claustral and semi-claustral queens that shape their colony-founding success.
How to spot a queen ant
Queen ants have unique physical traits that make them stand out from other colony members. Ant keepers can spot these distinctive features to confidently identify potential colony founders.
Physical features to look for
A queen ant's thorax, the middle part of her body, makes her easy to recognise. Her thorax looks much bulkier and more muscular than worker ants and takes up more than half of her body size. On top of that, it has a large abdomen that contains specialised reproductive organs.
Queen ants typically possess darker bodies compared to their worker counterparts, and their exoskeletons exhibit a glossy or iridescent sheen. Their mandibles are more robust and developed, and their antennae are longer (have more segments) than those of the average worker ants, even soldiers (majors).
Size comparison with workers
Queens and workers show big size differences that vary by species. To name just one example, see the black garden ant (Lasius niger) - queens grow 9-10mm long while workers are nowhere near that size at just 3-5mm. Yellow meadow ant queens (Lasius flavus) are a bit smaller at 7-8mm and have a distinctive yellowish-brown gaster. Lasius flavus workers are same the size as Lasius N. There are no known Lasius ant species with major (soldier) workers.
Queen sizes in any ant species can range from tiny 1mm specimens to giants over 50mm long. Army ants beat the record - their queens are massive.
On another note, talking about the top 3 beginner-friendly ant colonies we must give credit to the Myrmica rubra as well, their queen is just 1-2 millimetres bigger than the average worker ant and the only way to spot her is after moving the colony into an ant nest. She will never leave the nest and will be carried as real royalty.
Wing scars and other marks
Young queen ants start life with wings they use during their nuptial flight. These wings fall off after mating and leave telltale scars on the thorax. You'll spot these scars as dark lines on both sides, sometimes with bits of wing tissue still attached to the connection points.
Smaller ant species' wing scars need a magnifying glass or microscope to see clearly. Carpenter ants (Camponotus species) scars show up easily without any magnification.
Queen ants also give themselves away through their behaviour. They stay in their nest's centre and prefer damp and well-ventilated spots, especially in rotting wood. Worker ants constantly fuss over the queen and climb all over her - a sure sign you've found the colony's ruler.
Understanding claustral queens
Claustral queens reveal nature's most advanced method for kickstarting ant colonies! These incredible insects boast unique traits that enable them to establish colonies without ever leaving their nesting chambers. This ensures the queen's survival rate during the crucial foundation stage is nearly 100%!
What makes a queen claustral
A claustral queen's most striking feature is knowing how to turn her wing muscles and fat stores into nutrients after mating. This amazing process helps her create eggs and special food for her first batch of workers.
The changes in claustral queens' bodies are remarkable. The oesophagus of Monomorium species undergoes significant enlargement, increasing from 7-10 micrometres to 265 micrometres. This adaptation enables them to store sufficient nutrients necessary for establishing a colony.
These queens can support themselves during the founding period by turning their body tissues into either trophic eggs or special saliva secretions. While this approach means fewer initial workers, it keeps queens safe from predators since they never leave the nest.
Common claustral species
Many ant subfamilies have adopted claustral colony founding over time. The Formicinae and Myrmicinae subfamilies mostly have claustral queens. Here are some examples:
Solenopsis and Lasius species, including red imported fire ants, are fully claustral
Camponotus species show strict claustral behaviour
Lasius flavus has interesting patterns, where queens sometimes work together to start colonies
Claustral queens look different from their semi-claustral female cousins. They have bigger bodies but smaller heads in comparison. These queens need minimal care as they start their colonies - just water and a quiet space is enough. We do recommend feeding Claustral queens once a week protein jelly.
This will ensure she has strong and healthy babies!
The shift from semi-claustral to claustral colony founding was a big step in developing ant species. Though this strategy has some limits with nutrient availability, it works amazingly well. This adaptation has helped ants thrive in many different environments, which shows in their ecological success.
Semi-claustral queen basics
Semi-claustral queens differ from their claustral counterparts in how they establish their colonies. These amazing insects show behaviours that make them fascinating to ant enthusiasts.
Key characteristics
Semi-claustral queens have slimmer bodies and smaller gasters compared to fully claustral queens. Their appearance looks much like worker ants, which makes it harder for new ant keepers to identify them. These queens must leave their nesting chambers to find food, which puts them at risk. Research shows many queens face attacks when they search for food. Sadly, almost 30% won't return to the nest during the first 3 months.
Feeding needs
Semi-claustral queens' nutrition needs careful attention. They just need regular access to carbohydrates and proteins while they establish their colonies. A balanced diet includes:
Weekly portions of Ant nectar or specialised ant food: Protein Jelly and Cricket mash
or Small insects that match the queen's size, boiled and cut into pieces
Fresh water supplies must be available at all times (if kept in a test tube setup the queen will drink from the cotton of the reservoir)
The right feeding schedule is vital since semi-claustral queens don't have stored nutrients for continuous egg-laying and larval growth. Some queens like Harpegnathos Venator (Primitive Jumping Ant) need a small foraging area connected to their nesting chamber right from the start.
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What do ants eat? Find out here: From Sugar to Insects: What Do Ants Eat
Popular species and types of queen ants
Several prominent ant species show semi-claustral behaviour. The most recognised genera include:
Myrmica species, known for their powerful stings
Myrmecia, also called bull ants
Pogonomyrmex, or harvester ants
Semi-claustral founding might seem riskier, yet these queens adapt remarkably well. They flourish in setups of most types, from simple test tube arrangements to complex environments with natural elements like bamboo tubes or gypsum inserts that control humidity. Please do not buy Gel Ant Farms or cheap rubbishy setups like Uncle Milton's Ant Farm or similar due to the poor quality and inability to maintain the correct humidity for live ants with a queen ant.
Find out more here: Ant Farm Kits Everything You Need to Know Before Making a Purchase
These queens need little disturbance even with their foraging habits. The colony's success often depends on balancing resource provision with minimal interference. With proper care and attention to their unique needs, these fascinating queens build thriving colonies differently than their claustral relatives.
Avoid direct sunlight on the ant farm at any time!
Setting up the right environment
Setting up the right environment is vital to helping a queen ant colony thrive. Each element, from the right test tube setup to precise temperature control, plays a key role in colony growth.
Test tube setup guide
A properly prepared test tube setup is the foundation of any ant colony. Fill about half the test tube with distilled or mineral (bottled) water. Push a cotton wool plug until it's completely wet, but make sure water doesn't flood the chamber. This setup will give your queen the right hydration and moisture levels.
Species that like to dig need food-grade agar agar in one-third of the test tube. Placing test tubes in a foraging area allows semi-claustral queens to gather resources more effectively. It is essential to wrap the test tube with tin foil to ensure the queen ant feels secure enough to establish a colony.
Temperature control
Ant species do best in temperatures between 20-26°C. Just 5 minutes of direct sunlight can raise nest temperatures by 5°C, which might lead to deadly toxin buildup in queens.
Woodland ant colonies can keep their internal temperature at 25°C even when outside temperatures drop to 13°C. This amazing temperature control comes from:
Well-constructed nest architecture
High worker density in the colony core
Strategic placement of brood chambers
If you need the perfect temperature control for your ants, please have a look at what we are using: Advanced Heating System for Ant Farms
Humidity needs
The right humidity levels are vital to colony survival. Water-soaked cotton in the test tube setup naturally keeps ideal moisture. All the same, each species has its own humidity priorities based on their natural habitats.
Soil humidity and temperature work together to influence how ants dig their nests. Queens build deeper nests in warm conditions and shallower ones when it's cooler. The right humidity levels are a vital part of successful colony establishment.
Your setup should be in a dark spot without vibrations so away from daily household activities, away from the TV and the stereo system. Keep an eye on conditions regularly, but minimise disturbance to prevent stress behaviours like egg consumption or colony abandonment. Camponotus queens can be quite protective and will eat their eggs at the first hint of danger! For example, if you peek in on your Camponotus Fedtschenkoi every week, she might munch on the eggs by the second week. So, we suggest checking in on her every 3-4 weeks to keep everything running smoothly!
Conclusion
The success of ant keeping depends on knowing how claustral and semi-claustral queens behave and what they need. Claustral queens can start colonies with minimal help since they use stored nutrients. Semi-claustral queens need regular food and a more detailed setup.
You can identify queen types by looking at their physical features, comparing sizes, and checking wing scars. This knowledge will give a great start to your colony care. A good test tube setup combined with the right temperature and humidity levels creates perfect conditions for your colony to thrive.
Ant keeping is a chance to learn about these unique insects up close. Ready to start your experience? Buy queen ants from Best Ants UK and begin with healthy and well-established ant colonies, plus properly identified specimens. Set up the right environment, keep conditions perfect, and you'll see your colony grow and thrive from one queen to thousands of workers.
FAQs
How can I identify a queen ant?
Look for a larger, more muscular thorax and an enlarged abdomen. Queen ants are typically darker and glossier than workers, with longer antennae and stronger mandibles. They also have distinctive wing scars on their thorax after shedding their wings post-mating.
What's the difference between claustral and semi-claustral queens? Claustral queens can establish colonies without leaving their nest, relying on stored nutrients (no feeding needed). Semi-claustral queens need to forage for food during the colony's founding. Claustral queens are usually bulkier with smaller heads, while semi-claustral queens are slimmer and resemble workers more closely.
How do I set up a proper environment for a queen ant?
Create a test tube setup with clean water and a cotton wool plug for moisture. Maintain temperatures between 20-26°C and ensure proper humidity levels, between 70% and 80% air humidity for the UK native ants. Place the setup away from direct sunlight, vibration-free location and minimise disturbances.
What should I feed a semi-claustral queen ant?
Provide a balanced diet of carbohydrates (sweets or specialised ant food) and proteins (small insects or Protein jelly proportionate to the queen's size). Offer these foods weekly, along with constant access to fresh water.
Can I keep different types of queen ants in the same setup?
While a test tube setup can work for both claustral and semi-claustral queens, semi-claustral queens require additional space for foraging. It's best to identify the queen type and provide a species-specific environment for optimal colony development. If you have a larger natural bio-active formicarium you might consider merging European carpenter ants with the Temnothorax nylanderi (Acorn Ants) species or similar.